Beng Mealea, as we call it today, remains shrouded in mystery. Despite its large size, it’s not mentioned in any of the Khmer Empire’s inscriptions. Therefore, we don’t know when it was built, or by whom. The temple has been left unrestored, with parts of it having merged with the jungle. All of these enigmatic factors combined make this one of Cambodia’s most intriguing temples.

Despite the lack of inscriptions, experts generally agree that Beng Mealea was built in the 12th century, around the same time as Angkor Wat. In fact, the layouts of the two temples are almost identical! Beng Mealea, however, is not pyramidal but flat. Scholars, therefore, think that it was either an earlier inspiration for, or a later tribute to, Angkor Wat.

Beng Mealea, and the city surrounding its central temple, would’ve been quite prosperous in its day. Located roughly 40 kilometers from Siem Reap/Angkor, the temple-city was once situated on an ancient road connecting it with the major eastern outpost of Preah Khan of Kampong Svay. It was also located nearby the stone quarries of Mt. Kulen. Hardly any sculptures remain, however, and to this day we don’t even know which deity the temple’s main idol represented. Beng Mealea’s isolated location, unfortunately, has made it especially susceptible to looters.

If you enjoy unrestored temples such as Ta Prohm, but are looking for somewhere a little less crowded, Beng Mealea may be worth the day trip from Siem Reap. Though free exploration is prohibited for safety reasons, the recently installed elevated walkway offers a unique overhead perspective of the temple – or at least what’s left of it.

Beng Mealea is at the centre of an ancient Angkorian road connecting Angkor Thom and Preah Khan (Prasat Bakan) in Preah Vihear Province, now evocatively numbered route 66. A small Angkorian bridge just west of Chau Srei Vibol temple is the only remaining trace of the old Angkorian road between Beng Mealea and Angkor Thom; between Beng Mealea and Preah Khan there are at least 10 bridges abandoned in the forest. This is a way for extreme adventurers to get to Preah Khan temple, but do not undertake this journey lightly.